At Canlis in Seattle, Best New Chef Brady Williams balances classic components with modern techniques. For his Barley Crêpes with Cabbage and Sauce Pierre, Williams envelops grilled fermented cabbage in a savory buckwheat crêpe, accompanied by rich sauce Pierre. The cabbage in this barley crêpe calls for naturally fermented Japanese ayu fish sauce. Sweeter and milder than the Vietnamese version; ayu fish sauce is available at well-stocked Asian grocery stores and at tokyocentral.com. You can order the shio koji and black vinegar in this recipe at amazon.com.