At her Oakland restaurant Nyum Bai, chef Nite Yun serves classic Cambodian street food like this quick-cured, brightly acidic halibut in lettuce cups, AKA plea trey. Red Thai chiles, as opposed to green, impart a subtle fruitiness and more up-front spice in the lime marinade, which pulls double-duty as a dressing. A touch of oil right before serving adds flavor-boosting richness to lean halibut.